The whole reason to be in this city between eleven and two on a Saturday. Russafa, the Cabanyal, and one bar in the old town that has not changed since 1917.
6 places
The best vermut in the city and it knows it — neon, old Campari posters, a list that covers every vermut-producing corner of Spain. Order the Moreneta, vermut rojo cut with beer, and the lágrimas de pollo. Saturday, noon, outside.
Carrer del Mossén Femenia, Russafa
Opened 1836, wooden barrels along the wall, and the tapas are as serious as the wine list. Vermut from the barrel, anchovies from Santoña, titaina. Book, even at lunch — the Cabanyal is not a secret any more.
Carrer de Josep Benlliure 69, Cabanyal
Since 1917, and there is one reason to come: clóchinas, the small local mussels, steamed with lemon and pepper, in season from May to August. Vermut alongside, standing up, elbows on the marble.
Carrer del Moro Zeid 13
Absurd velvet-and-candelabra baroque, and the place to drink Agua de València — cava, orange juice, gin, vodka — which is dangerous by the jug and native to this city.
Carrer del Comte d'Almodòvar 1
A bookshop that serves wine, which is the correct format for a bookshop. Russafa's living room. Buy something, stay for one, end up staying for three.
Carrer del Literat Azorín 13
A square in the Carmen where the tables spill out and the crowd has been left-leaning and loud for forty years. Not the best drink you will have here; probably the best hour.
Plaça del Negret
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The whole reason to be in this city between eleven and two on a Saturday. Russafa, the Cabanyal, and one bar in the old town that has not changed since 1917.