Barceloneta and Poblenou. Lunch, never dinner — a paella at nine at night is a tourist tax.
5 places
Barceloneta since 1903, white tablecloths, signed photographs, waiters who have worked there thirty years. Arròs a la marinera at lunch. The most old-Barcelona meal available.
Carrer de Sant Carles 4
A square with old trees in Poblenou that feels like a village. Fish off the boat, rice cooked to order, a terrace worth booking specifically for.
Plaça de Prim 1
The one place on the seafront strip that is not a trap. Fideuà, black rice, a set lunch that is honestly cheap for what arrives.
Passeig de Joan de Borbó 58
Open since 1836, a different rice every day of the week, chandeliers and a piano. Institutional in a way that is charming rather than tired.
Passeig d'Isabel II 14
Feet almost in the sand, paella at two, then nowhere to be. Book a week ahead in summer or you will not sit down.
Avinguda del Litoral 62
Barceloneta and Poblenou. Lunch, never dinner — a paella at nine at night is a tourist tax.
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