Paella is from here and eaten at lunch. Two in the city, three in El Palmar, which is worth the drive south.
6 places
Since 1922, and the only place in the city cooking paella over orange-wood fire the whole day. Paella valenciana — chicken, rabbit, beans, no chorizo, ever. Book, order for two people minimum, eat at two in the afternoon like everyone else.
Carrer d'Isabel de Villena 155
Open since 1898 on the Malvarrosa seafront; Hemingway ate here and they will remind you. Get the arròs del senyoret, where all the seafood is peeled for you. Touristed and still genuinely good.
Passeig de Neptú 6
Half an hour south into the Albufera rice fields, in the village where paella was actually invented. All-i-pebre of eel first, then the rice. This is the pilgrimage.
El Palmar
The other El Palmar answer, on the water. Book a table by the window, order the arròs amb fesols i naps in winter. Take the boat out on the lagoon afterwards.
El Palmar
If you cannot get out to the Albufera, this is the paella valenciana to eat in town. Small, old-fashioned, and the rice is exactly right. Thursday is the day locals eat it — join in.
Carrer del Mestre Gozalbo 19
Out among the rice paddies with the water on both sides. Go for the setting as much as the pan, and go at lunch — there is nothing to see after dark.
El Palmar
Sign in to keep it too.
Paella is from here and eaten at lunch. Two in the city, three in El Palmar, which is worth the drive south.